Guidebook for Kraków

Paweł
Guidebook for Kraków

Drinks & Nightlife

FORUM PRZESTRZENIE In the former reception lobby of the Soviet-era Forum Hotel, Forum Przestrzenie is one of Krakow's most original, intriguing and effortlessly cool locales. The owners have simply added dozens of bean bags, sofas and bit of street art sensibility to the original interiors, assembled a highly competent kitchen to create stellar sandwiches, salads and pizzas, stocked the bar with decent beer, and watched the talented, tattooed post-college crowd ("hipsters" you might call them) turn this vast riverside venue into the trendiest place to be day or night. With great views and plenty of space, in warm months their huge riverside terrace is sprawling with beach chairs, while inside there's enough space for ping-pong tables and foosball. DJ parties and other events are a constant, making Forum one of the most unpredictable and exciting venues in town. www.forumprzestrzenie.com Open 10:00 - 02:00
Marii Konopnickiej 28
28 Marii Konopnickiej
FORUM PRZESTRZENIE In the former reception lobby of the Soviet-era Forum Hotel, Forum Przestrzenie is one of Krakow's most original, intriguing and effortlessly cool locales. The owners have simply added dozens of bean bags, sofas and bit of street art sensibility to the original interiors, assembled a highly competent kitchen to create stellar sandwiches, salads and pizzas, stocked the bar with decent beer, and watched the talented, tattooed post-college crowd ("hipsters" you might call them) turn this vast riverside venue into the trendiest place to be day or night. With great views and plenty of space, in warm months their huge riverside terrace is sprawling with beach chairs, while inside there's enough space for ping-pong tables and foosball. DJ parties and other events are a constant, making Forum one of the most unpredictable and exciting venues in town. www.forumprzestrzenie.com Open 10:00 - 02:00
HARRIS PIANO JAZZ BAR This downstairs jazz den is host to outstanding concerts dally, yet remains one of our least favourite venues thanks to the small, cluttered seating arrangement: If you haven't reserved a table for the show, you'll find nowhere to sit and if you have reserved a chair, once you take your seat you'll find it a trial to get up again. Aggravating the dilemma are staff on the market square baiting more people past the ticket vendors, where they'll then have no view of the action on stage. Harris now offers food until 24:00, however, so at least they'll feed you. tel. (+48) 12 421 57 41, www.harris.krakow.pl Open 11;00 - 02:00, Fri 11:00 - 03:00, Sat 10:00 - 03:00, Sun 10:00 - 02:00.
521 persone del luogo consigliano
Piazza del Mercato Centrale
Rynek Główny
521 persone del luogo consigliano
HARRIS PIANO JAZZ BAR This downstairs jazz den is host to outstanding concerts dally, yet remains one of our least favourite venues thanks to the small, cluttered seating arrangement: If you haven't reserved a table for the show, you'll find nowhere to sit and if you have reserved a chair, once you take your seat you'll find it a trial to get up again. Aggravating the dilemma are staff on the market square baiting more people past the ticket vendors, where they'll then have no view of the action on stage. Harris now offers food until 24:00, however, so at least they'll feed you. tel. (+48) 12 421 57 41, www.harris.krakow.pl Open 11;00 - 02:00, Fri 11:00 - 03:00, Sat 10:00 - 03:00, Sun 10:00 - 02:00.
ALCHEMIA One of Krakow's most evocative bars, the aptly-named Alchemia perfectly captures the spia candlelight, rorgotten photographs and antique intrigues of the former Jewish district. A dim bohemian cafe by day, in the evenings Alchemia's murky mystique metamorphoses blood into beer for the ruddy regulars and excitable tourists queuing before the indifferent bar staff. The cellar, when it's not being used as a student disco, plays host to some of the best concerts in town and is a prime participant in annual jazz and klezmer festivals, and the adjacent ALCHEMIA OD KUCHNI serves a full menu of excellent eats until 23:00 ( 24:00 Fri & Sat). Essential in every way. (+48) 12 421 22 00, www.alchemia.com.pl. Open 09:00 - 03:00. Mon 10:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00
8 persone del luogo consigliano
Estery 5
5 Estery
8 persone del luogo consigliano
ALCHEMIA One of Krakow's most evocative bars, the aptly-named Alchemia perfectly captures the spia candlelight, rorgotten photographs and antique intrigues of the former Jewish district. A dim bohemian cafe by day, in the evenings Alchemia's murky mystique metamorphoses blood into beer for the ruddy regulars and excitable tourists queuing before the indifferent bar staff. The cellar, when it's not being used as a student disco, plays host to some of the best concerts in town and is a prime participant in annual jazz and klezmer festivals, and the adjacent ALCHEMIA OD KUCHNI serves a full menu of excellent eats until 23:00 ( 24:00 Fri & Sat). Essential in every way. (+48) 12 421 22 00, www.alchemia.com.pl. Open 09:00 - 03:00. Mon 10:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00
SINGER One of the first bars in Kazimierz, Singer set the table for all that was to come, essentially inventing the evocative aesthetic of cracked mirrors, dusky paintings, rickety antiques and candlelight associated with the district today. Despite its long tenure, lofty reputation and intrusion of tourists, today Singer still holds all the magic it did when it first opened, A charismatic, even chimerical cafe by day, Singer hits its stride around 03:00 when tabletops turn into dancefloors, the regulars abandon their drinks to dip and spin each other to an energetic mix of gypsy, klezmer, celtic and swing music, the entire bar begins to feel like a ferris wheel ready to fly off its axis and the boundaries of time are obliterated. Yeah, we've had a few good onces here. (+48) 12 292 06 22. Open 09:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 06:00
Izaaka 1
1 Izaaka
SINGER One of the first bars in Kazimierz, Singer set the table for all that was to come, essentially inventing the evocative aesthetic of cracked mirrors, dusky paintings, rickety antiques and candlelight associated with the district today. Despite its long tenure, lofty reputation and intrusion of tourists, today Singer still holds all the magic it did when it first opened, A charismatic, even chimerical cafe by day, Singer hits its stride around 03:00 when tabletops turn into dancefloors, the regulars abandon their drinks to dip and spin each other to an energetic mix of gypsy, klezmer, celtic and swing music, the entire bar begins to feel like a ferris wheel ready to fly off its axis and the boundaries of time are obliterated. Yeah, we've had a few good onces here. (+48) 12 292 06 22. Open 09:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 06:00
KLUB PIĘKNY PIES Everyone who knows Kraków knows "The Beautiful Dog," whether they lived here 15 years ago or just arrived. Now wearing out its third location, this cult drink tank for unwashed artists, Dylan Thomas impersonators, cougar vampires, counter-culture cuties and hard-living ex-pats features a cramped front room, beyond which you'll find a second bar, stage, DJ station and dancefloor where chain-smoking is entirely acceptable. The same great playlist of classic rock, indie hits, post-punk and new wave keeps the dancing spontaneous rather than obligatory throughout the week, while the weekends are often given over to concerts and DJ sets. One of the best choices in Kraków if you want a late night but not a 'nightclub. Open 16:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 05:00.
Bożego Ciała 9
9 Bożego Ciała
KLUB PIĘKNY PIES Everyone who knows Kraków knows "The Beautiful Dog," whether they lived here 15 years ago or just arrived. Now wearing out its third location, this cult drink tank for unwashed artists, Dylan Thomas impersonators, cougar vampires, counter-culture cuties and hard-living ex-pats features a cramped front room, beyond which you'll find a second bar, stage, DJ station and dancefloor where chain-smoking is entirely acceptable. The same great playlist of classic rock, indie hits, post-punk and new wave keeps the dancing spontaneous rather than obligatory throughout the week, while the weekends are often given over to concerts and DJ sets. One of the best choices in Kraków if you want a late night but not a 'nightclub. Open 16:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 05:00.
PROZAK 2.0 Once a honey-trap for horny foreigners hoping to ‘pull’ from the pool of bottle blondes happily putting drinks on their tabs, a post-renovation relaunch has gotten Prozak back into the good graces of Kraków’s serious clubbing scene, and back onto the cutting edge with an impressive line-up of top DJs on weekends. The interior remains an endless maze of underground rooms over two levels with an incredible four bars and three dance-floors on which to wild out. The crowd is mostly local, but just as fun, flirty and foreign-friendly as ever, with the party continuing until the natural selection of those with blondes and those with kebabs takes place in the blurry light of another dawn. www.prozakdwazero.pl Open 22:00 - 06:00; Fri, Sat 22:00 - 08:00, Sun 22:00 - 04:00. From July open 22:00 - 06:00; Fri, Sat 22:00 - 08:00; Mon, Sun 22:00 - 04:00.
plac Dominikański 6
6 plac Dominikański
PROZAK 2.0 Once a honey-trap for horny foreigners hoping to ‘pull’ from the pool of bottle blondes happily putting drinks on their tabs, a post-renovation relaunch has gotten Prozak back into the good graces of Kraków’s serious clubbing scene, and back onto the cutting edge with an impressive line-up of top DJs on weekends. The interior remains an endless maze of underground rooms over two levels with an incredible four bars and three dance-floors on which to wild out. The crowd is mostly local, but just as fun, flirty and foreign-friendly as ever, with the party continuing until the natural selection of those with blondes and those with kebabs takes place in the blurry light of another dawn. www.prozakdwazero.pl Open 22:00 - 06:00; Fri, Sat 22:00 - 08:00, Sun 22:00 - 04:00. From July open 22:00 - 06:00; Fri, Sat 22:00 - 08:00; Mon, Sun 22:00 - 04:00.
LES COULEURS - The quintessential thinking man's cafe, Les Couleurs is a special favourite among Kraków's aging, dog-faced bohemians, androgynous hipsters who wear oversized, non-prescription glasses and anyone with a laptop. Plastered with classic French posters and photos of Serge Gainsbourg, Kazimierz's most well-lit bar - and one of it's most well-loved - is an anytime affair where cigarettes, coffee, beer, bile and blood are as interchangable and easily confused as work, pleasure and art; as day and night. Recommended. (+48) 12 429 42 70 Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri 07:00 - 02:00, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00.
Estery 10
10 Estery
LES COULEURS - The quintessential thinking man's cafe, Les Couleurs is a special favourite among Kraków's aging, dog-faced bohemians, androgynous hipsters who wear oversized, non-prescription glasses and anyone with a laptop. Plastered with classic French posters and photos of Serge Gainsbourg, Kazimierz's most well-lit bar - and one of it's most well-loved - is an anytime affair where cigarettes, coffee, beer, bile and blood are as interchangable and easily confused as work, pleasure and art; as day and night. Recommended. (+48) 12 429 42 70 Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri 07:00 - 02:00, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00.
Mostowa Art Cafe - This seemingly nondescript gallery/cafe/bar is the linchpin in a raft of new venues that have turned this quiet street between Plac Wolnica and the pedestrian bridge to Podgórze into one of the hippest places to hang out these days. In warm weather the small interior of white walls dressed in art canvases spills out onto the sidewalk as young people compete for a place to pass the time drinking delicious microbrews and homemade vodkas served out of a tiny fridge. It doesn't take much, and whatever it is - this place has it. If you don't know, now you know, hipster. (+48) 730 48 04 77 Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00.
Mostowa 8
8 Mostowa
Mostowa Art Cafe - This seemingly nondescript gallery/cafe/bar is the linchpin in a raft of new venues that have turned this quiet street between Plac Wolnica and the pedestrian bridge to Podgórze into one of the hippest places to hang out these days. In warm weather the small interior of white walls dressed in art canvases spills out onto the sidewalk as young people compete for a place to pass the time drinking delicious microbrews and homemade vodkas served out of a tiny fridge. It doesn't take much, and whatever it is - this place has it. If you don't know, now you know, hipster. (+48) 730 48 04 77 Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00.
The Stage - A proper pool hall with a handsome design and large windows that practically put the action happening inside out onto the sidewalk, The Stage is actually more than just a classy billiards club. Despite being the most professional place in town to rack 'em up (they have 7 tables costing 15-23zł/hr), as the name suggests, the stage itself is the focus here, with regular events including concerts, cabarets, and karaoke with a live band (check online to see what's up). They also have a full bar, pizza and snacks, live sports transmissions, and a library of books to peruse. Very friendly and laid-back, it's basically the perfect neighbourhood pub. (+48) 12 681 63 85 www.thestage.pl Open 13:00 - 01:00.
Łobzowska 3
3 Łobzowska
The Stage - A proper pool hall with a handsome design and large windows that practically put the action happening inside out onto the sidewalk, The Stage is actually more than just a classy billiards club. Despite being the most professional place in town to rack 'em up (they have 7 tables costing 15-23zł/hr), as the name suggests, the stage itself is the focus here, with regular events including concerts, cabarets, and karaoke with a live band (check online to see what's up). They also have a full bar, pizza and snacks, live sports transmissions, and a library of books to peruse. Very friendly and laid-back, it's basically the perfect neighbourhood pub. (+48) 12 681 63 85 www.thestage.pl Open 13:00 - 01:00.
Ambasada Śledzia - There's a vodka and śledź bar on seemingly every corner in Kraków these days, and we're gonna go ahead and blame Ambasada Śledzia for this fishy fad. They were first, and if we're judging by food, they're also the best. In case you're wondering, pickled herring (śledź) is a 'delicacy' in these parts in the same way that vodka is local parlance for 'medicine.' The two go great together and for 12zł it's a cheap fling with foreign culinary culture. Presumably after trouble with the neighbours, the primary 'Herring Embassy' now closes at midnight, but the all-night shenanigans that once characterised this cult hipster haven have simply moved down the street to ul. Stolarska 5 ('Śledź u Fryzjera,' open 10:00 - 05:00); there's also a tiny second location ('Mały Śledź') in Kazimierz at ul. Bożego Ciała 11 (open 16:00 - 02:00; Fri, Sat 10:00 - 05:00; Sun 10:00 - 02:00). (+48) 662 56 94 60 Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00.
Stolarska 8
8 Stolarska
Ambasada Śledzia - There's a vodka and śledź bar on seemingly every corner in Kraków these days, and we're gonna go ahead and blame Ambasada Śledzia for this fishy fad. They were first, and if we're judging by food, they're also the best. In case you're wondering, pickled herring (śledź) is a 'delicacy' in these parts in the same way that vodka is local parlance for 'medicine.' The two go great together and for 12zł it's a cheap fling with foreign culinary culture. Presumably after trouble with the neighbours, the primary 'Herring Embassy' now closes at midnight, but the all-night shenanigans that once characterised this cult hipster haven have simply moved down the street to ul. Stolarska 5 ('Śledź u Fryzjera,' open 10:00 - 05:00); there's also a tiny second location ('Mały Śledź') in Kazimierz at ul. Bożego Ciała 11 (open 16:00 - 02:00; Fri, Sat 10:00 - 05:00; Sun 10:00 - 02:00). (+48) 662 56 94 60 Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00.
BOMBA - In almost no time at all, this small bar managed to establish itself as a cult hangout thanks to a simple concept few places follow anymore: good music plus good people equals good times. Unpretentious with an interior of unfinished wood, brick walls and a small upstairs balcony level with a great view of Plac Szczepański, the solid gold playlist rotates funk and soul, electro, dub-step, hip-hop and pop. (+48) 782 60 19 99 Open 10:00 - 04:00.
24 persone del luogo consigliano
Piazza Szczepanski
7 plac Szczepański
24 persone del luogo consigliano
BOMBA - In almost no time at all, this small bar managed to establish itself as a cult hangout thanks to a simple concept few places follow anymore: good music plus good people equals good times. Unpretentious with an interior of unfinished wood, brick walls and a small upstairs balcony level with a great view of Plac Szczepański, the solid gold playlist rotates funk and soul, electro, dub-step, hip-hop and pop. (+48) 782 60 19 99 Open 10:00 - 04:00.
C.K. BROWAR - On top of being Kraków’s oldest microbrewery (serving so-so Light, Ginger, Dunkel and Weizen ales), CK Browar has plenty more going for it including the handsome beer hall interior with copper brewing vats, tiffany-style lamps and long wooden tables fit for a Viking feast with a fist of grog. Redoubling the barbarian potential is the possibility of getting a five litre beer tower with its own tap fitted to your table. Damn good times, the downside being that what could be an elegant, even sophisticated, beer cellar is actually a rather loutish lads’ bar noted for bad music, bad service and occasionally bad company - namely intoxicated, unpredictable and sometimes aggressive local boys. A new location at Rynek Główny 37 now makes it more likely that you’ll encounter the same kind of behaviour from your fellow travellers. www.ckbrowar.krakow.pl Open 09:00 - 01:00, Thu 09:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00.
15 persone del luogo consigliano
Podwale 6
6 Podwale
15 persone del luogo consigliano
C.K. BROWAR - On top of being Kraków’s oldest microbrewery (serving so-so Light, Ginger, Dunkel and Weizen ales), CK Browar has plenty more going for it including the handsome beer hall interior with copper brewing vats, tiffany-style lamps and long wooden tables fit for a Viking feast with a fist of grog. Redoubling the barbarian potential is the possibility of getting a five litre beer tower with its own tap fitted to your table. Damn good times, the downside being that what could be an elegant, even sophisticated, beer cellar is actually a rather loutish lads’ bar noted for bad music, bad service and occasionally bad company - namely intoxicated, unpredictable and sometimes aggressive local boys. A new location at Rynek Główny 37 now makes it more likely that you’ll encounter the same kind of behaviour from your fellow travellers. www.ckbrowar.krakow.pl Open 09:00 - 01:00, Thu 09:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00.
DRUKARNIA - What began as a cosy cafe and jazz club has morphed into something much more thanks to persistent expansion, and remains basically the first and last port of call for those on the piss in Podgórze. Three unique venues in one, Drukarnia's ground floor features a candlelit, antique-laden cafe leading on to a surprisingly long American-style tandem bar more focussed on fancy drinks. The massive downstairs still serves as a fantastic concert space, but has become just as noteworthy for outrageous dance parties packed full of prime meat on weekends. (+48) 12 656 65 60 Open 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00.
Nadwiślańska 1
1 Nadwiślańska
DRUKARNIA - What began as a cosy cafe and jazz club has morphed into something much more thanks to persistent expansion, and remains basically the first and last port of call for those on the piss in Podgórze. Three unique venues in one, Drukarnia's ground floor features a candlelit, antique-laden cafe leading on to a surprisingly long American-style tandem bar more focussed on fancy drinks. The massive downstairs still serves as a fantastic concert space, but has become just as noteworthy for outrageous dance parties packed full of prime meat on weekends. (+48) 12 656 65 60 Open 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00.
Mechanoff - Behind the copper-plated bar are any number of once cutting-edge, weird and wonderful contraptions which will have you guessing long into the night as to their original purpose. Not that you will mind spending time here: the music is the right side of left field - think Bregovic and Tiersen - the staff ace and the crowd real. Poseurs steer clear. (+48) 12 422 70 98 Open 10:00-02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00-05:00, Sun 08:00-02:00.
Estery 8
8 Estery
Mechanoff - Behind the copper-plated bar are any number of once cutting-edge, weird and wonderful contraptions which will have you guessing long into the night as to their original purpose. Not that you will mind spending time here: the music is the right side of left field - think Bregovic and Tiersen - the staff ace and the crowd real. Poseurs steer clear. (+48) 12 422 70 98 Open 10:00-02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00-05:00, Sun 08:00-02:00.
PROPAGANDA - The interior is a dingy museum of curbside communist scrap, from propaganda posters and slashed portraits of Lenin to clunky cameras and chunky radios. As rough around the edges as its clientele, there's no lack of menace to the mainstays at the bar and you should probably put your galoshes on before entering the toilets. The Polish punk, ska and metal on airplay represents the taste of the sturdy, tattooed barstaff who won't hesitate to throw you across the room if provoked, yet we can't help but love this completely unpredictable hole-in-the-head dive bar. (+48) 600 33 19 22 www.pubpropaganda.pl Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00.
14 persone del luogo consigliano
Miodowa 20
20 Miodowa
14 persone del luogo consigliano
PROPAGANDA - The interior is a dingy museum of curbside communist scrap, from propaganda posters and slashed portraits of Lenin to clunky cameras and chunky radios. As rough around the edges as its clientele, there's no lack of menace to the mainstays at the bar and you should probably put your galoshes on before entering the toilets. The Polish punk, ska and metal on airplay represents the taste of the sturdy, tattooed barstaff who won't hesitate to throw you across the room if provoked, yet we can't help but love this completely unpredictable hole-in-the-head dive bar. (+48) 600 33 19 22 www.pubpropaganda.pl Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00.
SKY BAR - (Stary Hotel) The cherry on top of the impeccable Hotel Stary, this seasonal cafe has all the class you'd expect from this outfit, not to mention some of the best views of the market square you'll get without borrowing the personal aircraft of one of the guests here. For coffee and dessert or even a light lunch in a relaxing atmosphere, you really can't do better. One of the Old Town's best seasonal spots. (+48) 12 384 08 06 www.likusrestauracje.pl Open 12:00 - 23:00. Open from May to October only.
24 persone del luogo consigliano
Piazza Szczepanski
7 plac Szczepański
24 persone del luogo consigliano
SKY BAR - (Stary Hotel) The cherry on top of the impeccable Hotel Stary, this seasonal cafe has all the class you'd expect from this outfit, not to mention some of the best views of the market square you'll get without borrowing the personal aircraft of one of the guests here. For coffee and dessert or even a light lunch in a relaxing atmosphere, you really can't do better. One of the Old Town's best seasonal spots. (+48) 12 384 08 06 www.likusrestauracje.pl Open 12:00 - 23:00. Open from May to October only.
The Piano Rouge - The red-light interior of this opulent underground venue on the market square embraces burlesque sensuality with boudoir curtains, velvet cushions, plush loveseats, exotic lamps and an outstanding bartop lined with piano keys. The Parisian decadence is matched perfectly with attentive staff in sexy evening attire, great cocktails and European fare, and live piano jazz, pop and soul performances that take place every day from 21:00 - 24:00. (+48) 12 431 03 33 www.thepianorouge.com.pl Open 10:00 - 02:00.
521 persone del luogo consigliano
Piazza del Mercato Centrale
Rynek Główny
521 persone del luogo consigliano
The Piano Rouge - The red-light interior of this opulent underground venue on the market square embraces burlesque sensuality with boudoir curtains, velvet cushions, plush loveseats, exotic lamps and an outstanding bartop lined with piano keys. The Parisian decadence is matched perfectly with attentive staff in sexy evening attire, great cocktails and European fare, and live piano jazz, pop and soul performances that take place every day from 21:00 - 24:00. (+48) 12 431 03 33 www.thepianorouge.com.pl Open 10:00 - 02:00.

Food Scene

Food trucks are the latest Polish food fad, and Skwer Judah in Kazimierz - so named after the massive street mural that adorns it - provides the parking for this culinary trend. Here you'll find several meals on wheels to choose from, and in warm weather beach chairs, benches and palettes are placed all over this concrete pitch, making it one of the coolest places in town to catch some quick grub. Tenants change often, but during our most recent visit the options included Big Red Bustaurant (a vintage UK double-decker bus with upstairs seating, serving soup, sausage, and fish and chips), Frytki Belgijskie (Belgian-style fries), Boogie Truck (burgers, paninis), Pan Kumpir (loaded jacket potatoes), Andrus Food Truck (serving maczanka - the Cracovian pulled pork sandwich), Kocham Naleśniki (crepes), Yatai (sushi), Wiązana Kawa (coffee) and Chimney Cake Bakery. Opening hours and availability vary with each, of course, but most are open roughly 12:00 - 22:00; Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00 (note that there are fewer venues open on Monday).
30 persone del luogo consigliano
Skwer Judah
16 Świętego Wawrzyńca
30 persone del luogo consigliano
Food trucks are the latest Polish food fad, and Skwer Judah in Kazimierz - so named after the massive street mural that adorns it - provides the parking for this culinary trend. Here you'll find several meals on wheels to choose from, and in warm weather beach chairs, benches and palettes are placed all over this concrete pitch, making it one of the coolest places in town to catch some quick grub. Tenants change often, but during our most recent visit the options included Big Red Bustaurant (a vintage UK double-decker bus with upstairs seating, serving soup, sausage, and fish and chips), Frytki Belgijskie (Belgian-style fries), Boogie Truck (burgers, paninis), Pan Kumpir (loaded jacket potatoes), Andrus Food Truck (serving maczanka - the Cracovian pulled pork sandwich), Kocham Naleśniki (crepes), Yatai (sushi), Wiązana Kawa (coffee) and Chimney Cake Bakery. Opening hours and availability vary with each, of course, but most are open roughly 12:00 - 22:00; Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00 (note that there are fewer venues open on Monday).
ALCHEMIA OD KUCHNI - One of the best places in Kraków to start your day is also the same place you ended it. This modest addendum to the legendary Alchemia bar has one of the most enticing breakfast menus in town, including chorizo hashbrowns, eggs benedict, eggs florentine and delicious American pancakes, served until 12:00 on weekdays, 13:00 weekends. An extension of the legendary bar of the same name, Alchemia od Kuchni serves a spot-on menu of sit-down street food, burgers, vegetarian eats and eclectic entrees including fish pie, falafel and more. Open late and also open early (see Breakfast), everything we've tried has been great, essentially making od Kuchni our favourite thing about Alchemia these days. The simple, white tile and brick aesthetic is reminiscent of NYC or Copenhagen's meatpacking districts, the prices won't divest you of your beer money, and the service is light years ahead of the bar next door. The team behind this place obviously cares, rather than just cashing in on the location and crowds; cheers to that. www.odkuchni.com (+48) 882 04 42 99 Open 08:00 - 23:00, Mon 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 24:00.
Estery 3
3 Estery
ALCHEMIA OD KUCHNI - One of the best places in Kraków to start your day is also the same place you ended it. This modest addendum to the legendary Alchemia bar has one of the most enticing breakfast menus in town, including chorizo hashbrowns, eggs benedict, eggs florentine and delicious American pancakes, served until 12:00 on weekdays, 13:00 weekends. An extension of the legendary bar of the same name, Alchemia od Kuchni serves a spot-on menu of sit-down street food, burgers, vegetarian eats and eclectic entrees including fish pie, falafel and more. Open late and also open early (see Breakfast), everything we've tried has been great, essentially making od Kuchni our favourite thing about Alchemia these days. The simple, white tile and brick aesthetic is reminiscent of NYC or Copenhagen's meatpacking districts, the prices won't divest you of your beer money, and the service is light years ahead of the bar next door. The team behind this place obviously cares, rather than just cashing in on the location and crowds; cheers to that. www.odkuchni.com (+48) 882 04 42 99 Open 08:00 - 23:00, Mon 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 24:00.
BARKA If you're thinking of boarding one of the several dining vessels along the Wisła River, make it Barka. This Dutch cargo barge dates back to 1889 and was once significant enough to the history of water transport to be featured on a Dutch postage stamp. Since then it has been modernised by Polish craftsmen with thrilling results. Descend into the spacious hold refitted with wooden floors, a sculpted bar, fireplace and skylights that let in plenty of natural light. The cocktail and wine lists are duly impressive, and the menu of creative designer food is thoroughly enjoyable. Utterly elegant and skillfully stylish, climb aboard and become an instant socialite. www.barkakrakow.pl Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (Bulwar Kurlandzki (near the terminus of ul. Gazowa)
17 persone del luogo consigliano
Bulwar Kurlandzki
Bulwar Kurlandzki
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BARKA If you're thinking of boarding one of the several dining vessels along the Wisła River, make it Barka. This Dutch cargo barge dates back to 1889 and was once significant enough to the history of water transport to be featured on a Dutch postage stamp. Since then it has been modernised by Polish craftsmen with thrilling results. Descend into the spacious hold refitted with wooden floors, a sculpted bar, fireplace and skylights that let in plenty of natural light. The cocktail and wine lists are duly impressive, and the menu of creative designer food is thoroughly enjoyable. Utterly elegant and skillfully stylish, climb aboard and become an instant socialite. www.barkakrakow.pl Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (Bulwar Kurlandzki (near the terminus of ul. Gazowa)
ARIEL You’ll hear mixed reports about Ariel; while our last visit was underwhelming, we've met many who extol the virtues of this veteran restaurant's varied Jewish cuisine. The setting is typical of the district, with antiques and heirlooms alluding to the Kazimierz of yesteryear, and a set of rooms decorated in a charmingly cluttered style. The live klezmer music is a popular draw and quintessential tourist experience, though you may appreciate it less when you learn you are being charged (25zł) to listen to it. In spring and summer performances take place daily, but in winter you should call to find out; either way reservations are recommended. (+48) 12 421 79 20 www.ariel-krakow.pl Open 10:00 - 24:00.
Szeroka 17
17 Szeroka
ARIEL You’ll hear mixed reports about Ariel; while our last visit was underwhelming, we've met many who extol the virtues of this veteran restaurant's varied Jewish cuisine. The setting is typical of the district, with antiques and heirlooms alluding to the Kazimierz of yesteryear, and a set of rooms decorated in a charmingly cluttered style. The live klezmer music is a popular draw and quintessential tourist experience, though you may appreciate it less when you learn you are being charged (25zł) to listen to it. In spring and summer performances take place daily, but in winter you should call to find out; either way reservations are recommended. (+48) 12 421 79 20 www.ariel-krakow.pl Open 10:00 - 24:00.
Bottiglieria 1881 - Discreetly hidden on a side street off Plac Wolnica, this small, intimate wine bar exudes class and taste with a sharp decór of fine stonework and aged rough-hewn timber, an open kitchen, VIP service, and an expertly stocked wine cellar (of course). Chef Paweł Kras has put together a mouth-watering and mercifully concise menu of delicious dishes, and tailor-makes a tantalising assortment of fresh tapas (4zł each) right before your eyes, while sommelier Michał Jancik complements them perfectly with his recommendations. A great place for business or courtship, Bottiglieria received an 'Award of Excellence' by Wine Spectator magazine, and recently won a top local award for their cuisine. Hardly a surprise, since there are embarrassingly few venues in Kraków as beautifully elegant and unique as this one.Discreetly hidden on a side street off Plac Wolnica, this small, intimate wine bar exudes class and taste with a sharp decór of fine stonework and aged rough-hewn timber, an open kitchen, VIP service, and an expertly stocked wine cellar (of course). Chef Paweł Kras has put together a mouth-watering and mercifully concise menu of delicious dishes, and tailor-makes a tantalising assortment of fresh tapas (4zł each) right before your eyes, while sommelier Michał Jancik complements them perfectly with his recommendations. A great place for business or courtship, Bottiglieria received an 'Award of Excellence' by Wine Spectator magazine, and recently won a top local award for their cuisine. Hardly a surprise, since there are embarrassingly few venues in Kraków as beautifully elegant and unique as this one. tel. (+48) 660 66 17 56 www.1881.pl Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.
Bocheńska 5
5 Bocheńska
Bottiglieria 1881 - Discreetly hidden on a side street off Plac Wolnica, this small, intimate wine bar exudes class and taste with a sharp decór of fine stonework and aged rough-hewn timber, an open kitchen, VIP service, and an expertly stocked wine cellar (of course). Chef Paweł Kras has put together a mouth-watering and mercifully concise menu of delicious dishes, and tailor-makes a tantalising assortment of fresh tapas (4zł each) right before your eyes, while sommelier Michał Jancik complements them perfectly with his recommendations. A great place for business or courtship, Bottiglieria received an 'Award of Excellence' by Wine Spectator magazine, and recently won a top local award for their cuisine. Hardly a surprise, since there are embarrassingly few venues in Kraków as beautifully elegant and unique as this one.Discreetly hidden on a side street off Plac Wolnica, this small, intimate wine bar exudes class and taste with a sharp decór of fine stonework and aged rough-hewn timber, an open kitchen, VIP service, and an expertly stocked wine cellar (of course). Chef Paweł Kras has put together a mouth-watering and mercifully concise menu of delicious dishes, and tailor-makes a tantalising assortment of fresh tapas (4zł each) right before your eyes, while sommelier Michał Jancik complements them perfectly with his recommendations. A great place for business or courtship, Bottiglieria received an 'Award of Excellence' by Wine Spectator magazine, and recently won a top local award for their cuisine. Hardly a surprise, since there are embarrassingly few venues in Kraków as beautifully elegant and unique as this one. tel. (+48) 660 66 17 56 www.1881.pl Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.
CHADER (entrance from ul. Jakuba) - Opened by the Jewish Culture Festival Association in a former prayer house, Cheder continues Kazimierz's obsession with its past, serving as a Jewish cultural centre and cafe. A large open space with wooden furnishings, Cheder hosts lectures, film screenings, concerts and other events promoting Judaism; however its most impressive resource is the in-house library of Jewish-related books, many of which are in English. Whatever your relationship with Israel, this quiet, wifi-enabled cafe is undeniably one of the best places to work or study in town, with a delicious cup of Israeli coffee served in a traditional finjan to guide you. (+48) 515 73 22 26 www.cheder.pl Open 10:00 - 22:00.
Józefa 36
36 Józefa
CHADER (entrance from ul. Jakuba) - Opened by the Jewish Culture Festival Association in a former prayer house, Cheder continues Kazimierz's obsession with its past, serving as a Jewish cultural centre and cafe. A large open space with wooden furnishings, Cheder hosts lectures, film screenings, concerts and other events promoting Judaism; however its most impressive resource is the in-house library of Jewish-related books, many of which are in English. Whatever your relationship with Israel, this quiet, wifi-enabled cafe is undeniably one of the best places to work or study in town, with a delicious cup of Israeli coffee served in a traditional finjan to guide you. (+48) 515 73 22 26 www.cheder.pl Open 10:00 - 22:00.
MOMENT - It's Sunday brunch every day in Moment where breakfast is served until 16:00. Their large and diverse breakfast options include Polish, English and French sets, and are some of the best bargains in town at 14-19zł, including tea or coffee. (+48) 668 03 40 00 www.momentcafe.pl Open 09:00 - 01:00.
Estery 22
22 Estery
MOMENT - It's Sunday brunch every day in Moment where breakfast is served until 16:00. Their large and diverse breakfast options include Polish, English and French sets, and are some of the best bargains in town at 14-19zł, including tea or coffee. (+48) 668 03 40 00 www.momentcafe.pl Open 09:00 - 01:00.
Pierożki Mr. Vincent - A great place to introduce yourself to this national staple, Vincent's versions rise above the ordinary. Though it may be impossible to 'reinvent' a food as versatile as the pierogi, this veteran establishment has tried with apple and liver, minced lamb, chicken and spinach, and broccoli and feta among the 30 different options. Get a mixed-batch to share with a friend, and top it off with your choice of a variety of sauces and extras. Popular, cheap and cheerful (thanks to a sunflowered, starry-nighted Van Gogh interior), takeaway may be your best option at peak feed times. (+48) 506 80 63 04 Open 11:00 - 21:00.
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Bożego Ciała 12
12 Bożego Ciała
19 persone del luogo consigliano
Pierożki Mr. Vincent - A great place to introduce yourself to this national staple, Vincent's versions rise above the ordinary. Though it may be impossible to 'reinvent' a food as versatile as the pierogi, this veteran establishment has tried with apple and liver, minced lamb, chicken and spinach, and broccoli and feta among the 30 different options. Get a mixed-batch to share with a friend, and top it off with your choice of a variety of sauces and extras. Popular, cheap and cheerful (thanks to a sunflowered, starry-nighted Van Gogh interior), takeaway may be your best option at peak feed times. (+48) 506 80 63 04 Open 11:00 - 21:00.
PIMIENTO - Behind the gloss and sheen of Pimiento, this place is about meat and little more; big unapologetic hunks of it. Boasting of the best steaks in town, Pimiento gets all their meat straight from Argentina, so if you've had one too many Polish cutlets and want a proper steak, head here. Prices appear steep until you remember how much a good steak costs wherever you last had one, and a selection of South American wines wash it down. A second location in the Old Town at ul. Stolarska 13 (+48) 12 421 25 02 www.pimiento.pl Open 12:00 - 23:00.
Józefa 26
26 Józefa
PIMIENTO - Behind the gloss and sheen of Pimiento, this place is about meat and little more; big unapologetic hunks of it. Boasting of the best steaks in town, Pimiento gets all their meat straight from Argentina, so if you've had one too many Polish cutlets and want a proper steak, head here. Prices appear steep until you remember how much a good steak costs wherever you last had one, and a selection of South American wines wash it down. A second location in the Old Town at ul. Stolarska 13 (+48) 12 421 25 02 www.pimiento.pl Open 12:00 - 23:00.
Stara Zajezdnia (The Old Depot) - Abandoned for decades, this old tram depot has assumed a second life as Kraków’s biggest brewery and beer hall. A large complex of cavernous brick and timber buildings, Stara Zajezdnia’s size is both a blessing and a curse. When the sun’s out hundreds of beach chairs dot the garden, but the impressive main hall - which features the city’s longest bar - is too impractical to open except for special events of over 100 guests. The smaller out-building that serves as the main dining hall can still feel pretty lonely without a large party inside, but if you happen to be in one, do bring it here. Flat-screens are on hand for football and the on-site brewed beers (lager, wheat, honey, apple and a new American India Pale Ale) do well to wash down the ribs and other traditional fare tailored to complement them. Also don’t overlook the separate menu of single malt whiskies if you want to beat your friends in the race to be first under the table. (+48) 664 32 39 88 www.starazajezdniakrakow.pl Open 14:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 01:00.
Świętego Wawrzyńca 12
12 Św. Wawrzyńca
Stara Zajezdnia (The Old Depot) - Abandoned for decades, this old tram depot has assumed a second life as Kraków’s biggest brewery and beer hall. A large complex of cavernous brick and timber buildings, Stara Zajezdnia’s size is both a blessing and a curse. When the sun’s out hundreds of beach chairs dot the garden, but the impressive main hall - which features the city’s longest bar - is too impractical to open except for special events of over 100 guests. The smaller out-building that serves as the main dining hall can still feel pretty lonely without a large party inside, but if you happen to be in one, do bring it here. Flat-screens are on hand for football and the on-site brewed beers (lager, wheat, honey, apple and a new American India Pale Ale) do well to wash down the ribs and other traditional fare tailored to complement them. Also don’t overlook the separate menu of single malt whiskies if you want to beat your friends in the race to be first under the table. (+48) 664 32 39 88 www.starazajezdniakrakow.pl Open 14:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 01:00.
Warsztat (The Workshop) - This little cafe/restaurant pretty much represents everything we love about Kazimierz: a charmingly kooky, casual atmosphere of effortless originality created by candlelight and a clutter of battered musical instruments. The food - risottos, pasta, salads, pizza and more - is generous in portioning and rich in flavour without any notion that your wallet will be, making Warsztat an excellent detour from the day's agenda. Recommended. Also now a larger location in the neighbourhood at ul. Bożego Ciała 1, and they've opened a Polish restaurant - Warsztat po polsku - at ul. Miodowa 20 (+48) 12 430 14 51 www.restauracjawarsztat.pl Open 09:00 - 23:45, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00.
Izaaka 3
3 Izaaka
Warsztat (The Workshop) - This little cafe/restaurant pretty much represents everything we love about Kazimierz: a charmingly kooky, casual atmosphere of effortless originality created by candlelight and a clutter of battered musical instruments. The food - risottos, pasta, salads, pizza and more - is generous in portioning and rich in flavour without any notion that your wallet will be, making Warsztat an excellent detour from the day's agenda. Recommended. Also now a larger location in the neighbourhood at ul. Bożego Ciała 1, and they've opened a Polish restaurant - Warsztat po polsku - at ul. Miodowa 20 (+48) 12 430 14 51 www.restauracjawarsztat.pl Open 09:00 - 23:45, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00.

Arts & Culture

Entitled 'Judah,' this large mural by Pil Peled - one of Israel's most famous street artists - was created in July 2013 as part of the Jewish Culture Festival. According to the artist, the image of the child represents fear, vulnerability and the inner child, and the lion represents the Jews' struggle to survive and preserve their culture, as well as the strength to overcome their fears. To us, it looks like Princess Mononoke.
Świętego Wawrzyńca 16
16 Św. Wawrzyńca
Entitled 'Judah,' this large mural by Pil Peled - one of Israel's most famous street artists - was created in July 2013 as part of the Jewish Culture Festival. According to the artist, the image of the child represents fear, vulnerability and the inner child, and the lion represents the Jews' struggle to survive and preserve their culture, as well as the strength to overcome their fears. To us, it looks like Princess Mononoke.
Schindler's Factory (Fabryka Schindlera) - In 2010, the Oskar Schindler Enamelled Goods Factory (to give it its full name) re-opened to the public as a world-class museum. The story of Oskar Schindler and his employees is one which has been well-known since Steven Spielberg's film Schindler’s List (which was shot almost entirely in Kraków) brought it to audiences across the world in 1993, and while that story is covered in detail on the original site where many events took place, the museum actually casts the city of Kraków in the main role of its permanent exhibition titled, ‘Kraków During Nazi Occupation 1939-1945.’ Individual histories of Kraków’s wartime inhabitants guide visitors through the exhibit which covers the war of 1939, everyday life under occupation, the fate of the Jews, the city’s underground resistance and more, using vast archival documents, photos, radio and film recordings, period artefacts and dynamic multimedia installations. Other exhibits change regularly, while a separate section of the original factory is reserved for film screenings, lectures and other cultural events, and another large part of the factory hosts MOCAK - Kraków's excellent contemporary art museum which opened in 2011. A must-visit, Schindler's Factory is one of the most fascinating museums in the entire country and we recommend you reserve at least two hours if you want to see everything. To get there take a tram to Pl. Bohaterów Getta and it's a 5-10 minute walk down ul. Kącik, under the train overpass, onto ul. Lipowa and you're there. (+48) 12 257 10 17 www.mhk.pl Open 09:00 - 20:00, Mon 10:00 - 16:00; first Mon of each month 10:00 - 14:00. Last entrance 1.5 hours before closing. Price/Additional Info Admission 21/16zł, family ticket 50zł. Groups of over 15 people 18zł (without guide)/20zł (with guide) and must book in advance. Mon free for permanent exhibitions.
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Lipowa 4
4 Lipowa
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Schindler's Factory (Fabryka Schindlera) - In 2010, the Oskar Schindler Enamelled Goods Factory (to give it its full name) re-opened to the public as a world-class museum. The story of Oskar Schindler and his employees is one which has been well-known since Steven Spielberg's film Schindler’s List (which was shot almost entirely in Kraków) brought it to audiences across the world in 1993, and while that story is covered in detail on the original site where many events took place, the museum actually casts the city of Kraków in the main role of its permanent exhibition titled, ‘Kraków During Nazi Occupation 1939-1945.’ Individual histories of Kraków’s wartime inhabitants guide visitors through the exhibit which covers the war of 1939, everyday life under occupation, the fate of the Jews, the city’s underground resistance and more, using vast archival documents, photos, radio and film recordings, period artefacts and dynamic multimedia installations. Other exhibits change regularly, while a separate section of the original factory is reserved for film screenings, lectures and other cultural events, and another large part of the factory hosts MOCAK - Kraków's excellent contemporary art museum which opened in 2011. A must-visit, Schindler's Factory is one of the most fascinating museums in the entire country and we recommend you reserve at least two hours if you want to see everything. To get there take a tram to Pl. Bohaterów Getta and it's a 5-10 minute walk down ul. Kącik, under the train overpass, onto ul. Lipowa and you're there. (+48) 12 257 10 17 www.mhk.pl Open 09:00 - 20:00, Mon 10:00 - 16:00; first Mon of each month 10:00 - 14:00. Last entrance 1.5 hours before closing. Price/Additional Info Admission 21/16zł, family ticket 50zł. Groups of over 15 people 18zł (without guide)/20zł (with guide) and must book in advance. Mon free for permanent exhibitions.
Wawel Castle (Zamek Królewski) - Wawel’s prominence as a centre of political power predates the building of the first Cathedral on the site in 1000AD. Evidence shows that Wawel Hill was being used as a fortified castle before Poland’s first ruler, Mieszko I (circa 962-992) chose Wawel as one of his official residences. The first Polish king crowned in Wawel Cathedral was the teenage Władysław the Short (1306-1333) on January 20, 1319, beginning a tradition that would see a further 35 royal rulers crowned there up until the 17th century. All of these rulers used the Castle as a residence, and all of them added their own architectural details to the building. The moving of the capital to Warsaw in 1596 and Poland’s subsequent decline and partitioning saw the Royal Castle fall into a state of disrepair. The occupying Austrians used it as a military hospital and even went so far as to demolish several buildings including a number of churches on the site. The 20th century saw the Castle change hands on a number of occasions, with the huge ongoing renovation works that continue to this day being halted for a number of reasons, most famously when the Castle was used as the headquarters of the Nazi Governor General, Hans Frank, during the German occupation of WWII. Today’s Castle complex is a beguiling muddle of styles including Medieval, Romanesque, Renaissance, Gothic and Baroque. The inner courtyard with its delightful colonnades is a true architectural masterpiece, and the treasures contained within do much to contribute to Kraków’s rightful status as a truly world-class city. (+48) 22 422 51 55 ext.219 www.wawel.krakow.pl All of Wawel will be closed on July 27. Also note that visiting hours may change or be limited throughout World Youth Days (July 26 - 31).
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Castello reale del Wawel
5 Wawel
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Wawel Castle (Zamek Królewski) - Wawel’s prominence as a centre of political power predates the building of the first Cathedral on the site in 1000AD. Evidence shows that Wawel Hill was being used as a fortified castle before Poland’s first ruler, Mieszko I (circa 962-992) chose Wawel as one of his official residences. The first Polish king crowned in Wawel Cathedral was the teenage Władysław the Short (1306-1333) on January 20, 1319, beginning a tradition that would see a further 35 royal rulers crowned there up until the 17th century. All of these rulers used the Castle as a residence, and all of them added their own architectural details to the building. The moving of the capital to Warsaw in 1596 and Poland’s subsequent decline and partitioning saw the Royal Castle fall into a state of disrepair. The occupying Austrians used it as a military hospital and even went so far as to demolish several buildings including a number of churches on the site. The 20th century saw the Castle change hands on a number of occasions, with the huge ongoing renovation works that continue to this day being halted for a number of reasons, most famously when the Castle was used as the headquarters of the Nazi Governor General, Hans Frank, during the German occupation of WWII. Today’s Castle complex is a beguiling muddle of styles including Medieval, Romanesque, Renaissance, Gothic and Baroque. The inner courtyard with its delightful colonnades is a true architectural masterpiece, and the treasures contained within do much to contribute to Kraków’s rightful status as a truly world-class city. (+48) 22 422 51 55 ext.219 www.wawel.krakow.pl All of Wawel will be closed on July 27. Also note that visiting hours may change or be limited throughout World Youth Days (July 26 - 31).
BARBICAN - The showpiece of the city's medieval defences, the Barbican was built at the end of the 15th century to protect Kraków's main entrance and was connected to the Floriańska Gate via a drawbridge over the moat that surrounded it. 24.4 metres in diameter with walls 3 metres thick this masterpiece of medieval military engineering proved impenetrable and today stands as one of the only surviving structures of its kind in Europe; certainly the most well-preserved. Built in Gothic style, the Kraków Barbican is topped by seven turrets and includes 130 defensive slots used by archers and riflemen. One of the structure's most famous legends comes from 1768, when local burgher Marcin Oracewicz defended Kraków from the Russians during the Bar Confederation by shooting their commander Colonel Panin dead with a coat button from his position within the Barbican; a plaque on the eastern side of the fortress commemorates the incident and Oracewicz's monument can be seen outside the Celestat Museum. Today the Barbican is used for various special events (medieval pageants, jousting contests) and can be visited as an outdoor museum from April until the end of October, where you'll learn the history of Kraków's defensive walls. As the bastion is often empty, it makes a fantastic place for a game of tag or an outpost for spying on passersby, however beware the gruesome sight of pigeons who have inadvertently lynched themselves in the netting meant to keep them out of the turrets. We guarantee you'll see at least three, which only adds to the medieval ambience of this place. (+48) 12 422 98 77 www.mhk.pl Open 10:30 - 18:00; closed 2nd Monday of each month. Price/Additional Info Admission 8/6zł, family ticket 16zł. Ticket includes admission to the nearby City Defensive Walls.
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Barbacane di Cracovia
Basztowa
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BARBICAN - The showpiece of the city's medieval defences, the Barbican was built at the end of the 15th century to protect Kraków's main entrance and was connected to the Floriańska Gate via a drawbridge over the moat that surrounded it. 24.4 metres in diameter with walls 3 metres thick this masterpiece of medieval military engineering proved impenetrable and today stands as one of the only surviving structures of its kind in Europe; certainly the most well-preserved. Built in Gothic style, the Kraków Barbican is topped by seven turrets and includes 130 defensive slots used by archers and riflemen. One of the structure's most famous legends comes from 1768, when local burgher Marcin Oracewicz defended Kraków from the Russians during the Bar Confederation by shooting their commander Colonel Panin dead with a coat button from his position within the Barbican; a plaque on the eastern side of the fortress commemorates the incident and Oracewicz's monument can be seen outside the Celestat Museum. Today the Barbican is used for various special events (medieval pageants, jousting contests) and can be visited as an outdoor museum from April until the end of October, where you'll learn the history of Kraków's defensive walls. As the bastion is often empty, it makes a fantastic place for a game of tag or an outpost for spying on passersby, however beware the gruesome sight of pigeons who have inadvertently lynched themselves in the netting meant to keep them out of the turrets. We guarantee you'll see at least three, which only adds to the medieval ambience of this place. (+48) 12 422 98 77 www.mhk.pl Open 10:30 - 18:00; closed 2nd Monday of each month. Price/Additional Info Admission 8/6zł, family ticket 16zł. Ticket includes admission to the nearby City Defensive Walls.

Essentials

Frania Cafe - Kraków's first and only laundromat cafe, Frania is full of bright walls, retro furnishings, local art and laid-back, laptopping students giving it the kind of atmosphere you might expect to find in a youth hostel common room. A full bar for coffee and less innocent libations, board games and wifi conspire to make brightening your whites in one of the seven machines discreetly tucked in the back room a lot less of a chore than you'd expect. In fact don't be surprised to find yourself spending time here even if a rampant taxi hasn't just showered your trousers in street sludge. (+48) 783 94 50 21 www.franiacafe.pl Open 10:30 - 24:00.
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Starowiślna 26
26 Starowiślna
15 persone del luogo consigliano
Frania Cafe - Kraków's first and only laundromat cafe, Frania is full of bright walls, retro furnishings, local art and laid-back, laptopping students giving it the kind of atmosphere you might expect to find in a youth hostel common room. A full bar for coffee and less innocent libations, board games and wifi conspire to make brightening your whites in one of the seven machines discreetly tucked in the back room a lot less of a chore than you'd expect. In fact don't be surprised to find yourself spending time here even if a rampant taxi hasn't just showered your trousers in street sludge. (+48) 783 94 50 21 www.franiacafe.pl Open 10:30 - 24:00.

Sightseeing

19th Century Polish Art Gallery (Galeria Sztuki Polskiej XIX Wieku) - This magnificent and historic exhibition inside the Cloth Hall covers Polish art from in and around the 19th century, and its major trends of portraiture and epic historical painting. Comprising four rooms, the collection is refreshingly small, giving proper attention to each piece, some of which are enormous and all of which are gorgeously framed. Almost everything by Jan Matejko here is rightly considered a national treasure, and the collection also includes works by Jacek Malczewski, Józef Chełmoński and Stanisław Witkiewicz, as well as Władysław Podkowiński's famous 'Frenzy' from 1894. Like a small slice of the Louvre in Kraków, but without the crowds, one of the perks of a visit is access to the magnificent balcony overlooking the market square. Recommended. (+48) 12 433 54 00 mnk.pl Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 16/9zł, family ticket 26zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free; Sun free.
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Palazzo dei tessuti
1 Rynek Główny
450 persone del luogo consigliano
19th Century Polish Art Gallery (Galeria Sztuki Polskiej XIX Wieku) - This magnificent and historic exhibition inside the Cloth Hall covers Polish art from in and around the 19th century, and its major trends of portraiture and epic historical painting. Comprising four rooms, the collection is refreshingly small, giving proper attention to each piece, some of which are enormous and all of which are gorgeously framed. Almost everything by Jan Matejko here is rightly considered a national treasure, and the collection also includes works by Jacek Malczewski, Józef Chełmoński and Stanisław Witkiewicz, as well as Władysław Podkowiński's famous 'Frenzy' from 1894. Like a small slice of the Louvre in Kraków, but without the crowds, one of the perks of a visit is access to the magnificent balcony overlooking the market square. Recommended. (+48) 12 433 54 00 mnk.pl Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 16/9zł, family ticket 26zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free; Sun free.
Kościuszko Mound (Kopiec Kościuszki) - History produces few men like Tadeusz Kościuszko (1746-1817). Having fought with distinction in the American War of Independence before inspiring a valiant Insurrection against foreign rule in Poland, this relentless freedom-fighter was described by Thomas Jefferson as ‘the purest son of liberty that I have ever known.’ Upon his passing Polish authorities demanded his body be sent from Switzerland to be interred in the Wawel Royal Crypts. Such was the love for Kościuszko that the people proposed to honour him with a monument in the tradition of the prehistoric mounds of King Krak and Wanda – and to make it the grandest in Kraków. With the approval of the Norbertine Sisters who granted the land, city authorities began developing an artificial burial mound to be constructed atop Bronisława Hill in Zwierzyniec. When construction began there was no lack of pomp and ceremony. First mass was held, followed by speeches; documents, heirlooms and artefacts from Kościuszko’s illustrious life were placed – as well as soil from his many battlefields, including those in America – before friends, statesmen and foreign dignitaries dumped the first wheelbarrows of dirt. For the next three years people of all ages from all over Poland brought soil from their villages to add to the mound. Though a committee was formed for its oversight, the work was all done voluntarily. Officially completed in November 1823, Kościuszko Mound stands 34 metres high, 326 metres above sea level, and on a clear day the Tatra Mountains can be seen from the top. In the 1850s the occupying Austrian military authorities built a brick fortress around the Mound, which they used as a strategic lookout point. Demolishing a chapel of St. Bronisława at the site, the thoughtful Austrians actually built a new chapel, incorporating it into the stronghold. By contrast, the Germans later threatened to entirely level the Mound and surrounding fortifications during their WWII occupation as they set about destroying all Polish monuments and national symbols (along with 3 million Polish Jews). Though parts of the fortress were destroyed, the complex has been restored and significant engineering improvements have been made to the Mound to ensure its longevity. Climbing to the peak is tiring work, but the panoramic views of Kraków are a worthwhile reward. The neo-Gothic Chapel of St. Bronisława, which contains a medley of objects connected to Kościuszko's life, can also be visited and the surrounding fortifications also house two cafes, a radio station, restaurant, and four additional historical exhibitions - one of which is wax museum of famous Poles. Admission to all exhibits is included with admission to the Mound. To learn more about quite simply the greatest Pole ever (sorry JPII), read our full-length feature on Tadeusz Kościuszko. To get to the mound take trams 1, 2 or 6 to ‘Salwator,’ from which it’s a lovely 1.6km walk up ul. Św Bronisława. The walk is all uphill though, so if you’re awaiting a hip replacement you might want to take bus 100 from there to the top instead. Or a cab from the Old Town is about 30zł. (+48) 12 425 11 16
aleja Jerzego Waszyngtona 1
Kościuszko Mound (Kopiec Kościuszki) - History produces few men like Tadeusz Kościuszko (1746-1817). Having fought with distinction in the American War of Independence before inspiring a valiant Insurrection against foreign rule in Poland, this relentless freedom-fighter was described by Thomas Jefferson as ‘the purest son of liberty that I have ever known.’ Upon his passing Polish authorities demanded his body be sent from Switzerland to be interred in the Wawel Royal Crypts. Such was the love for Kościuszko that the people proposed to honour him with a monument in the tradition of the prehistoric mounds of King Krak and Wanda – and to make it the grandest in Kraków. With the approval of the Norbertine Sisters who granted the land, city authorities began developing an artificial burial mound to be constructed atop Bronisława Hill in Zwierzyniec. When construction began there was no lack of pomp and ceremony. First mass was held, followed by speeches; documents, heirlooms and artefacts from Kościuszko’s illustrious life were placed – as well as soil from his many battlefields, including those in America – before friends, statesmen and foreign dignitaries dumped the first wheelbarrows of dirt. For the next three years people of all ages from all over Poland brought soil from their villages to add to the mound. Though a committee was formed for its oversight, the work was all done voluntarily. Officially completed in November 1823, Kościuszko Mound stands 34 metres high, 326 metres above sea level, and on a clear day the Tatra Mountains can be seen from the top. In the 1850s the occupying Austrian military authorities built a brick fortress around the Mound, which they used as a strategic lookout point. Demolishing a chapel of St. Bronisława at the site, the thoughtful Austrians actually built a new chapel, incorporating it into the stronghold. By contrast, the Germans later threatened to entirely level the Mound and surrounding fortifications during their WWII occupation as they set about destroying all Polish monuments and national symbols (along with 3 million Polish Jews). Though parts of the fortress were destroyed, the complex has been restored and significant engineering improvements have been made to the Mound to ensure its longevity. Climbing to the peak is tiring work, but the panoramic views of Kraków are a worthwhile reward. The neo-Gothic Chapel of St. Bronisława, which contains a medley of objects connected to Kościuszko's life, can also be visited and the surrounding fortifications also house two cafes, a radio station, restaurant, and four additional historical exhibitions - one of which is wax museum of famous Poles. Admission to all exhibits is included with admission to the Mound. To learn more about quite simply the greatest Pole ever (sorry JPII), read our full-length feature on Tadeusz Kościuszko. To get to the mound take trams 1, 2 or 6 to ‘Salwator,’ from which it’s a lovely 1.6km walk up ul. Św Bronisława. The walk is all uphill though, so if you’re awaiting a hip replacement you might want to take bus 100 from there to the top instead. Or a cab from the Old Town is about 30zł. (+48) 12 425 11 16
Plac Nowy - While Kraków’s main square, Rynek Główny, makes all the postcards and photographs, it is Plac Nowy in Kazimierz that has emerged as the spiritual centre of Kraków sub-culture. Lacking the splendour of the Old Town, Plac Nowy is, if anything, something of an eyesore – a collection of unkempt buildings surrounding a concrete square filled with chipped green market stalls and rat-like pigeons flapping about. If you want something completely different from the Old Town, however, here it is. Incorporated into the Jewish quarter in the late 17th century, Plac Nowy (New Square) didn't really begin assuming its shape until the early 19th century, with its central landmark, the Okrąglak (rotunda), added as late as 1900. For generations this square was referred to by locals as Plac Żydowski (Jewish Square); not only was it the primary marketplace of the Jewish quarter, but the rotunda served as a ritual slaughterhouse for poultry right up until Nazi occupation. Today butcher shops still occupy the interior, but the real activity is outside where hungry locals line-up in front of the dozen or so hole-in-the-wall food hatches that operate around the rotunda, eager to taste arguably the best 'zapiekanki' in Poland. Essentially a French bread pizza with the toppings of your choice, you’ll find everyone from police blokes ignoring emergency calls on their walkie-talkies to stick-thin party girls getting their week's worth of calories waiting outside the rotunda for this this legendary Cracovian street food. Visiting Kraków without eating a Plac Nowy zapiekanka would be like visiting Dublin without having a Guinness. Merchant stalls surround the rotunda, and you’ll find something happening here daily from 7:00 in the morning until early afternoon. Fresh produce, sweets and random rubbish are constant guarantees but weekly highlights include junk/antique sale Saturdays, Sunday's clothing market, and Friday morning's bewildering small critter expo/pigeon fair. A photo essay waiting to happen, arrive between 06:00 and 09:00 to the latter to learn the answer to the riddle, 'How many rabbits fit in a suitcase?' As trade dries up for the day the area takes on a new guise: Kraków’s premier pub crawl circuit. Full of shambolic charm, veteran boozers Singer and Alchemia put Plac Nowy on the map for punters, and remain two of the square's best bets for candlelit, pre-war mystique, while the similarly dark and arty Mleczarnia down the road (ul. Meiselsa) boasts the city's best beer garden during the warm months. In recent years the area has begun to diversify with glammy pre-club places like Le Scandale, Baroque, and Taawa - the square's first dance-club, but the fact of the matter remains that this bohemian outpost is Kraków's most interesting and exciting nightlife destination. Sadly plans are now afoot to renovate this historic square with the controversial winning design already receiving a rubber-stamp. Shockingly, the numerous market stalls which have been a part of Plac Nowy since its beginnings would disappear, a permanent stage would be installed at one side and parking on the square would be prevented. While the city has scored successes with similar revitalisation projects, there's nothing flaccid about the fizz of Plac Nowy and we're encouraged to hear that a lack of funds has delayed the start of the project indefinitely. Still, soak up the bohemian atmosphere of the area now before it's all swanky cocktail bars and stupefying street performers.
160 persone del luogo consigliano
plac Nowy
plac Nowy
160 persone del luogo consigliano
Plac Nowy - While Kraków’s main square, Rynek Główny, makes all the postcards and photographs, it is Plac Nowy in Kazimierz that has emerged as the spiritual centre of Kraków sub-culture. Lacking the splendour of the Old Town, Plac Nowy is, if anything, something of an eyesore – a collection of unkempt buildings surrounding a concrete square filled with chipped green market stalls and rat-like pigeons flapping about. If you want something completely different from the Old Town, however, here it is. Incorporated into the Jewish quarter in the late 17th century, Plac Nowy (New Square) didn't really begin assuming its shape until the early 19th century, with its central landmark, the Okrąglak (rotunda), added as late as 1900. For generations this square was referred to by locals as Plac Żydowski (Jewish Square); not only was it the primary marketplace of the Jewish quarter, but the rotunda served as a ritual slaughterhouse for poultry right up until Nazi occupation. Today butcher shops still occupy the interior, but the real activity is outside where hungry locals line-up in front of the dozen or so hole-in-the-wall food hatches that operate around the rotunda, eager to taste arguably the best 'zapiekanki' in Poland. Essentially a French bread pizza with the toppings of your choice, you’ll find everyone from police blokes ignoring emergency calls on their walkie-talkies to stick-thin party girls getting their week's worth of calories waiting outside the rotunda for this this legendary Cracovian street food. Visiting Kraków without eating a Plac Nowy zapiekanka would be like visiting Dublin without having a Guinness. Merchant stalls surround the rotunda, and you’ll find something happening here daily from 7:00 in the morning until early afternoon. Fresh produce, sweets and random rubbish are constant guarantees but weekly highlights include junk/antique sale Saturdays, Sunday's clothing market, and Friday morning's bewildering small critter expo/pigeon fair. A photo essay waiting to happen, arrive between 06:00 and 09:00 to the latter to learn the answer to the riddle, 'How many rabbits fit in a suitcase?' As trade dries up for the day the area takes on a new guise: Kraków’s premier pub crawl circuit. Full of shambolic charm, veteran boozers Singer and Alchemia put Plac Nowy on the map for punters, and remain two of the square's best bets for candlelit, pre-war mystique, while the similarly dark and arty Mleczarnia down the road (ul. Meiselsa) boasts the city's best beer garden during the warm months. In recent years the area has begun to diversify with glammy pre-club places like Le Scandale, Baroque, and Taawa - the square's first dance-club, but the fact of the matter remains that this bohemian outpost is Kraków's most interesting and exciting nightlife destination. Sadly plans are now afoot to renovate this historic square with the controversial winning design already receiving a rubber-stamp. Shockingly, the numerous market stalls which have been a part of Plac Nowy since its beginnings would disappear, a permanent stage would be installed at one side and parking on the square would be prevented. While the city has scored successes with similar revitalisation projects, there's nothing flaccid about the fizz of Plac Nowy and we're encouraged to hear that a lack of funds has delayed the start of the project indefinitely. Still, soak up the bohemian atmosphere of the area now before it's all swanky cocktail bars and stupefying street performers.
St. Francis' Basilica (Bazylika Św. Franciszka) - Kraków's most colourful church, and our personal favourite, thanks to the gorgeous Art Nouveau interiors by native son Stanisław Wyspiański, which nicely balance the organic and geometric with unique floral patterns. Wyspiański also made the eight stained-glass windows around 1895, including the controversial and iconic centrepiece, 'God the Father in the Act of Creation.' Dating back to the 13th century, St. Francis' Basilica was the first brick building in the city and is well worth popping in, even for those who could care less for looking at another church. (+48) 12 422 53 76 www.franciszkanska.pl Open 10:00 - 16:00, except Sunday when there is no visiting due to mass.
45 persone del luogo consigliano
Plac Wszystkich Świętych
plac Wszystkich Świętych
45 persone del luogo consigliano
St. Francis' Basilica (Bazylika Św. Franciszka) - Kraków's most colourful church, and our personal favourite, thanks to the gorgeous Art Nouveau interiors by native son Stanisław Wyspiański, which nicely balance the organic and geometric with unique floral patterns. Wyspiański also made the eight stained-glass windows around 1895, including the controversial and iconic centrepiece, 'God the Father in the Act of Creation.' Dating back to the 13th century, St. Francis' Basilica was the first brick building in the city and is well worth popping in, even for those who could care less for looking at another church. (+48) 12 422 53 76 www.franciszkanska.pl Open 10:00 - 16:00, except Sunday when there is no visiting due to mass.