Guidebook for Somerset
Food Scene
In the heart of Frome's conservation area of St Catherine's, this cafe in a converted chapel serves breakfast, brunch, cakes, snacks and pizza nights in a lively atmosphere on a gorgeous historic street. When the weather is mild I always sit outside with my coffee - especially on Saturdays, when it can get pretty noisy inside as it is very family-friendly!
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Rye Bakery
Whittox LaneIn the heart of Frome's conservation area of St Catherine's, this cafe in a converted chapel serves breakfast, brunch, cakes, snacks and pizza nights in a lively atmosphere on a gorgeous historic street. When the weather is mild I always sit outside with my coffee - especially on Saturdays, when it can get pretty noisy inside as it is very family-friendly!
My Number 1 choice, always. Not in Frome, but nearby, in beautiful Bruton and so worth the 20-minute drive. Stunning bistro and bar in a converted chapel with a wood-fired pizza oven which also has a bakery (I source breakfast croissants from their Saturday market stall in Frome for weekend guests and their sourdough, spelt or rye bread for toast whenever I can) and south-facing terrace which is often mild enough to sit out on even in winter. A hub of local life and worth sliding in here, even for coffee, if you are visiting Hauser & Wirth. Frome does not have anything to compare with this - as yet!
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At The Chapel
28 High StMy Number 1 choice, always. Not in Frome, but nearby, in beautiful Bruton and so worth the 20-minute drive. Stunning bistro and bar in a converted chapel with a wood-fired pizza oven which also has a bakery (I source breakfast croissants from their Saturday market stall in Frome for weekend guests and their sourdough, spelt or rye bread for toast whenever I can) and south-facing terrace which is often mild enough to sit out on even in winter. A hub of local life and worth sliding in here, even for coffee, if you are visiting Hauser & Wirth. Frome does not have anything to compare with this - as yet!
Listed annually by the Sunday Times as a great local, this inn (with rooms) has been set up by the same guys behind the Beckford Arms in Tisbury and they are ex-Soho House, so they know what they're doing. A cosy, candlelit restaurant, assured cooking with a good wine list. The pretty village of Mells is less than five miles away
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The Talbot Inn
Selwood StreetListed annually by the Sunday Times as a great local, this inn (with rooms) has been set up by the same guys behind the Beckford Arms in Tisbury and they are ex-Soho House, so they know what they're doing. A cosy, candlelit restaurant, assured cooking with a good wine list. The pretty village of Mells is less than five miles away
Mixed reviews from guests - some are impressed, others disappointed, so I would hazard a guess that the quality is inconsistent. I have not eaten here. It's convenient, though, in the heart of town and an easy walk from Through the Yellow Door.
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Fat Radish
21 Market PlMixed reviews from guests - some are impressed, others disappointed, so I would hazard a guess that the quality is inconsistent. I have not eaten here. It's convenient, though, in the heart of town and an easy walk from Through the Yellow Door.
If you're visiting Hauser & Wirth in Bruton, this bistro and bar is attached to the art gallery. The bar itself is an art instalment by Icelandic artists Björn and Oddur Roth. This is a real destination and worth getting down here for Thursday night From the Fire Feasts, a Friday if you can (the beef is from their own estate and 56-day aged). Open for dinner Thursday to Saturday. Closed Mondays.
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Roth Bar & Grill
Dropping LaneIf you're visiting Hauser & Wirth in Bruton, this bistro and bar is attached to the art gallery. The bar itself is an art instalment by Icelandic artists Björn and Oddur Roth. This is a real destination and worth getting down here for Thursday night From the Fire Feasts, a Friday if you can (the beef is from their own estate and 56-day aged). Open for dinner Thursday to Saturday. Closed Mondays.
Shopping
Cobbled hill of unique shops, formerly the town's high street and home to the monthly Frome Artisan market. Frome is vintage central and some of the best shops don't seem to come up on the 'Location' bit when i've tried to list them individually here. So, briefly, shops to check out are:
Naismith and Roberts. My favourite shop for mid-century modern furniture, decorative pieces, and lights. If you like this style, you might need to come in a van!
Poot. A bit of a trove for vintage clothing and accessories.
Lark. Lark was a tiny gem of a vintage clothing store, now closed, but I see from their Instagram account that they are doing up new premises. I'll keep you posted.
Catherine Street
Catherine StreetCobbled hill of unique shops, formerly the town's high street and home to the monthly Frome Artisan market. Frome is vintage central and some of the best shops don't seem to come up on the 'Location' bit when i've tried to list them individually here. So, briefly, shops to check out are:
Naismith and Roberts. My favourite shop for mid-century modern furniture, decorative pieces, and lights. If you like this style, you might need to come in a van!
Poot. A bit of a trove for vintage clothing and accessories.
Lark. Lark was a tiny gem of a vintage clothing store, now closed, but I see from their Instagram account that they are doing up new premises. I'll keep you posted.
Seed is on Catherine Hill in the old quarter of Frome. There are too many shops here to list, but Seed is at the foot of the hill and you can work your way up. gradually, stopping for coffee and trying not to buy too much!
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SEED
3 Catherine HillSeed is on Catherine Hill in the old quarter of Frome. There are too many shops here to list, but Seed is at the foot of the hill and you can work your way up. gradually, stopping for coffee and trying not to buy too much!
Only open Thurs to Sat (but check!) this is a plant shop with a difference. It's small but the owner creates living designs for events and there is always something amazing in the window. Also great for houseplants.
Lunaria
5 Quaperlake StOnly open Thurs to Sat (but check!) this is a plant shop with a difference. It's small but the owner creates living designs for events and there is always something amazing in the window. Also great for houseplants.
Unusual clothing store on one of Frome's loveliest streets (Cheap Street has what is called a 'leat' running down it, a stream) of very old buildings indeed. Lots of tweed and vivid prints.
Settlers Stores
87 Locks HillUnusual clothing store on one of Frome's loveliest streets (Cheap Street has what is called a 'leat' running down it, a stream) of very old buildings indeed. Lots of tweed and vivid prints.
Our local independent bookstore - go and browse and support them if you can!
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Hunting Raven Books
10 Cheap StOur local independent bookstore - go and browse and support them if you can!
This is real insider info ... you've heard of Dents, the glove people? Well their factory shop is in Warminster. Leather gloves in all sorts of colours, hats, scarves and discounted handbags. Good quality stuff.
Dents Factory Shop
Furnax LaneThis is real insider info ... you've heard of Dents, the glove people? Well their factory shop is in Warminster. Leather gloves in all sorts of colours, hats, scarves and discounted handbags. Good quality stuff.
Gifts, homewares and cards - this pretty shop is a Frome institution.
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The Golden Goose
1 Stony StGifts, homewares and cards - this pretty shop is a Frome institution.
LK Bennett, Margaret Howell, MiH Jeans, Bamford, Toast ... this is not really a shopping mall, but a designer outlet destination in old factory buildings on the edge of Shepton Mallet. A destination in its own right, to be honest. It probably won't keep you occupied for an entire day, but you could easily combine with lunch in a country pub.
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Kilver Court
Kilver StreetLK Bennett, Margaret Howell, MiH Jeans, Bamford, Toast ... this is not really a shopping mall, but a designer outlet destination in old factory buildings on the edge of Shepton Mallet. A destination in its own right, to be honest. It probably won't keep you occupied for an entire day, but you could easily combine with lunch in a country pub.
Renowned Christmas market held in the centre of the city each year. I shall update this section when details emerge for 2018! I can advise on parking or public transport from Frome, but it's really not to be missed.
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Bath Christmas Market
Queen SquareRenowned Christmas market held in the centre of the city each year. I shall update this section when details emerge for 2018! I can advise on parking or public transport from Frome, but it's really not to be missed.
Monthly Sunday market which spills all the way down Catherine Hill, through Bath Street and into the main town carpark. Artisan produce, flowers and plants, crafts of every kind - stand by those cash machines. Held in season on the first Sunday of each month (the next is in October 2018 and then there will be a Christmas date, to be announced, before it starts up again in spring). I shall keep this section updated.
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Catherine Hill
Catherine HillMonthly Sunday market which spills all the way down Catherine Hill, through Bath Street and into the main town carpark. Artisan produce, flowers and plants, crafts of every kind - stand by those cash machines. Held in season on the first Sunday of each month (the next is in October 2018 and then there will be a Christmas date, to be announced, before it starts up again in spring). I shall keep this section updated.
Cheese is to Somerset as bubbly is to the Champagne region of France. This is not a 'store', it didn't fit in to any of the category options. You are buying direct from the dairy, the slowly ageing truckles of their powerful, salty Cheddar are on view and the 'shop' is a simple affair where you buy direct from the producer. Westcombe makes just three or four different cheeses, all delicious, what is more, you will pay considerably less here than you will in the supermarket. Combine a trip here with lunch at the Three Horseshoes in Batcombe (listed under Food and Drink) for a pretty perfect morning or afternoon. See also Godminster Cheese ( I told you Somerset is cheese central).
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Westcombe Dairy
Cheese is to Somerset as bubbly is to the Champagne region of France. This is not a 'store', it didn't fit in to any of the category options. You are buying direct from the dairy, the slowly ageing truckles of their powerful, salty Cheddar are on view and the 'shop' is a simple affair where you buy direct from the producer. Westcombe makes just three or four different cheeses, all delicious, what is more, you will pay considerably less here than you will in the supermarket. Combine a trip here with lunch at the Three Horseshoes in Batcombe (listed under Food and Drink) for a pretty perfect morning or afternoon. See also Godminster Cheese ( I told you Somerset is cheese central).
Somerset artisan cheese direct from the producer at their little outlet in Bruton. You can taste before you buy and I'd advise checking out the fridge for 'close to sell-by date' soft cheese, which is cheaper and, frankly, better for being more ripe - don't say you ddn't get all the top tips here! See also Westcombe Dairy.
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The Godminster Shop
Somerset artisan cheese direct from the producer at their little outlet in Bruton. You can taste before you buy and I'd advise checking out the fridge for 'close to sell-by date' soft cheese, which is cheaper and, frankly, better for being more ripe - don't say you ddn't get all the top tips here! See also Westcombe Dairy.
Wiggle dresses, lavatory heels, kitsch handbags and a host of Fifties' inspired accessories are stocked by this fabulous Frome clothing store. Nigella is a fan, you will be, too.
Deadly Is The Female
59 Catherine StWiggle dresses, lavatory heels, kitsch handbags and a host of Fifties' inspired accessories are stocked by this fabulous Frome clothing store. Nigella is a fan, you will be, too.
Parks & Nature
Dreamy destination garden designed in the 1700s - utterly glorious whatever the season and not to be missed. Owned and managed by the National Trust, the house, once home to the Hoare banking family, is open in summer season. An easy straight run by car from the cottage.
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Stourhead
Dreamy destination garden designed in the 1700s - utterly glorious whatever the season and not to be missed. Owned and managed by the National Trust, the house, once home to the Hoare banking family, is open in summer season. An easy straight run by car from the cottage.
A little known National Trust garden just outside Bradford-on-Avon (see Tithe Barn below). Worth a visit, and there is a great little cafe nearby on the site of an old glove factory.
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The Courts Garden
A little known National Trust garden just outside Bradford-on-Avon (see Tithe Barn below). Worth a visit, and there is a great little cafe nearby on the site of an old glove factory.
Arts & Culture
International gallerists Hauser & Wirth (London, New York, LA, HK) opened a Somerset outpost in 2014. A series of contemporary exhibition spaces in renovated farm buildings and a prairie garden designed by world renowned landscape designer and plantsman, Piet Oudolf. There is also a coffee bar and bistro here which is open during the day.
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Hauser & Wirth Somerset
Dropping LaneInternational gallerists Hauser & Wirth (London, New York, LA, HK) opened a Somerset outpost in 2014. A series of contemporary exhibition spaces in renovated farm buildings and a prairie garden designed by world renowned landscape designer and plantsman, Piet Oudolf. There is also a coffee bar and bistro here which is open during the day.
This unusual museum is in a former private home, a classical Georgian villa, on a hilltop outside Bath with absolutely splendid views over the dreamy Limpley Stoke valley. Sir Winston Churchill made his first political speech here, there is a collection of important American folk art, and events are usually of a craft/textile nature. A recent addition has just been unveiled (by Alan Titchmarsh), the New American Garden, and now has the largest collection of American horticultural features in the United Kingdom.
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Museo e giardini americani
This unusual museum is in a former private home, a classical Georgian villa, on a hilltop outside Bath with absolutely splendid views over the dreamy Limpley Stoke valley. Sir Winston Churchill made his first political speech here, there is a collection of important American folk art, and events are usually of a craft/textile nature. A recent addition has just been unveiled (by Alan Titchmarsh), the New American Garden, and now has the largest collection of American horticultural features in the United Kingdom.
Don't miss this extraordinary gallery in a 14th-century barn built for the Abbess of Shaftesbury (who was clearly a woman to be reckoned with). It is the size of a football pitch (well, OK, I'm exaggerating a bit), and mounts great exhibitions which have so far ranged from contemporary ceramics to super cars. This autumn's photography and film season, entitled Image closes on 21 October 2018. The drive from here is scenic and the little town of Tisbury and the Fonthill Estate in which the gallery is located, are well worth the trip.
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Messums Wiltshire
Court StreetDon't miss this extraordinary gallery in a 14th-century barn built for the Abbess of Shaftesbury (who was clearly a woman to be reckoned with). It is the size of a football pitch (well, OK, I'm exaggerating a bit), and mounts great exhibitions which have so far ranged from contemporary ceramics to super cars. This autumn's photography and film season, entitled Image closes on 21 October 2018. The drive from here is scenic and the little town of Tisbury and the Fonthill Estate in which the gallery is located, are well worth the trip.
A stately home which also happens to have a famous safari park in its extensive grounds. In winter, when the animals have been wrapped in cotton wool and put away (well you know what I mean), the house comes into its own. It is one of my favourite heritage visits in the country, a magnificent house, and well worth a visit. The estate encompasses villages and inns, and so you can add a country pub or two to your trip, and a good walk in the grounds.
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Longleat House
A stately home which also happens to have a famous safari park in its extensive grounds. In winter, when the animals have been wrapped in cotton wool and put away (well you know what I mean), the house comes into its own. It is one of my favourite heritage visits in the country, a magnificent house, and well worth a visit. The estate encompasses villages and inns, and so you can add a country pub or two to your trip, and a good walk in the grounds.
Drinks & Nightlife
This local music venue punches above its weight. The programme often includes great international bands. Just a taste of what is coming up in autumn 2018: Jon Otway and Wild Willie Barrett, Fatboy Slim, and music and sacred dance from Mongolia and Tibet.
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Cheese & Grain
Justice LaneThis local music venue punches above its weight. The programme often includes great international bands. Just a taste of what is coming up in autumn 2018: Jon Otway and Wild Willie Barrett, Fatboy Slim, and music and sacred dance from Mongolia and Tibet.
You'll find plenty of Frome locals and a good pint in this characterful, town centre pub.
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The Three Swans
16-17 King StYou'll find plenty of Frome locals and a good pint in this characterful, town centre pub.
This is one of my favourite pubs. In the hidden village of Batcombe, you would never find this by chance. Good beer and homemade pork pies at the bar, and a good main menu for pub meals. In summer, the garden is pretty and the local church is right beside it.
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The Three Horseshoes Inn
This is one of my favourite pubs. In the hidden village of Batcombe, you would never find this by chance. Good beer and homemade pork pies at the bar, and a good main menu for pub meals. In summer, the garden is pretty and the local church is right beside it.
This traditional pub has recently been taken over, had a little makeover and introduced a new roster of night-time eats, from Taco Tuesdays to burger nights. The official brewery tap of the Frome Brewing Co, there are also guest ales on draught. Milk Street is the heart of Frome's conservation district, a little tricky to find on your first foray into town, but well worth it.
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The Griffin
6 Milk StThis traditional pub has recently been taken over, had a little makeover and introduced a new roster of night-time eats, from Taco Tuesdays to burger nights. The official brewery tap of the Frome Brewing Co, there are also guest ales on draught. Milk Street is the heart of Frome's conservation district, a little tricky to find on your first foray into town, but well worth it.
I'm rather fond of this friendly little bar in the conservation area of St Catherine's. The soundtrack is always good, as you sip craft beer or wines by the glass or carafe in simple surroundings. Open till 11pm most nights, and during the day when locals like to drop in for a simple platter of artisan cheese or charcuterie. Coffee is good, too.
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Palmer Street Bottle
11 Palmer StI'm rather fond of this friendly little bar in the conservation area of St Catherine's. The soundtrack is always good, as you sip craft beer or wines by the glass or carafe in simple surroundings. Open till 11pm most nights, and during the day when locals like to drop in for a simple platter of artisan cheese or charcuterie. Coffee is good, too.
One-night guests won't make it here, but if you are staying longer, and keen to walk in the Mendip Hills or the Somerset Levels (to see the starling murmurations, gatherings of starlings in the sky in incredible formations, between November and February), or plan to visit Cheddar Gorge, Wells or Glastonbury, then this characterful pub is not to be missed. Good food (always inventive veggie choices), draught ciders and beers, Sunday afternoon DJ ... it is a little hard to find but oh so worth it.
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Sheppey Inn station
One-night guests won't make it here, but if you are staying longer, and keen to walk in the Mendip Hills or the Somerset Levels (to see the starling murmurations, gatherings of starlings in the sky in incredible formations, between November and February), or plan to visit Cheddar Gorge, Wells or Glastonbury, then this characterful pub is not to be missed. Good food (always inventive veggie choices), draught ciders and beers, Sunday afternoon DJ ... it is a little hard to find but oh so worth it.
Freshford is a gorgeous village of cottages hugging steep, narrow lanes between Frome and Bath. If you are up for negotiating skinny lanes to get here, I'd thoroughly recommend it. Food is good, the location a pastoral treat!
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The Inn at Freshford
Freshford is a gorgeous village of cottages hugging steep, narrow lanes between Frome and Bath. If you are up for negotiating skinny lanes to get here, I'd thoroughly recommend it. Food is good, the location a pastoral treat!
Getting Around
Frome has a railway station with the occasional direct service from London, but it is most frequently served from Westbury which is the hub for this part of the country. Don't even think about buses here.
Great Western Railway
1 Milford StFrome has a railway station with the occasional direct service from London, but it is most frequently served from Westbury which is the hub for this part of the country. Don't even think about buses here.
Sightseeing
Who doesn't love a moated castle? The gorgeous village of Nunney is just outside Frome, has a dear little duckpond and stunning castle ruins. My spies tell me that Aidan Turner has been spotted filming for Poldark - but he probably won't still be there by the time you arrive. However, you can walk into town from Through the Yellow Door down the street in which they film the market scenes, so it's not all bad news.
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Nunney Castle
Castle StreetWho doesn't love a moated castle? The gorgeous village of Nunney is just outside Frome, has a dear little duckpond and stunning castle ruins. My spies tell me that Aidan Turner has been spotted filming for Poldark - but he probably won't still be there by the time you arrive. However, you can walk into town from Through the Yellow Door down the street in which they film the market scenes, so it's not all bad news.
UNESCO Heritage City of Bath is just 12 miles away but an expensive city to stay in. So book in here, and visit without the high prices. I can direct you to some secret parking spots (in return for chocolate), and my favourite locations. It will take you 30mins to drive to Bath from here.
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Bath
UNESCO Heritage City of Bath is just 12 miles away but an expensive city to stay in. So book in here, and visit without the high prices. I can direct you to some secret parking spots (in return for chocolate), and my favourite locations. It will take you 30mins to drive to Bath from here.
Dreamily beautiful town on the River Avon and Avon-and-Somerset Canal. Not to be missed, not least for its medieval tithe barn and the Saxon Church of St Laurence. The Bunch of Grapes is a great foodie pub, and it is en route to the M4 from Frome, so an ideal heritage pitstop. Or you can hire a bike in town to cycle the canal towpath.
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Bradford-on-Avon
Dreamily beautiful town on the River Avon and Avon-and-Somerset Canal. Not to be missed, not least for its medieval tithe barn and the Saxon Church of St Laurence. The Bunch of Grapes is a great foodie pub, and it is en route to the M4 from Frome, so an ideal heritage pitstop. Or you can hire a bike in town to cycle the canal towpath.