Guidebook for Edinburgh

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Guidebook for Edinburgh

Food Scene

It's one of the city's best vegetarian restaurants - it's only downside is that you nearly always have to book because it's so popular
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Kalpna
2-3 St Patrick Square
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It's one of the city's best vegetarian restaurants - it's only downside is that you nearly always have to book because it's so popular
Cheap and simple but delicious food.
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The Mosque Kitchen
31-33 Nicolson Square
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Cheap and simple but delicious food.
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Kilimanjaro Coffee
104 Nicolson St
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Perfect for light bites or full meals, it's relaxing and beautiful and friendly - and the food's delicious. Highly recommended to the point that last time I went people coming out were convincing us to go in (nothing like preaching to the converted!) :)
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Apiary
Newington Road
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Perfect for light bites or full meals, it's relaxing and beautiful and friendly - and the food's delicious. Highly recommended to the point that last time I went people coming out were convincing us to go in (nothing like preaching to the converted!) :)
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The Outsider Restaurant
15-16 George IV Bridge
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Probably also a great pub, I only know it for its great coffee and brunch options, which really are delicious.
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The Other Place
2-4 Broughton Rd
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Probably also a great pub, I only know it for its great coffee and brunch options, which really are delicious.
Awesome food and beer, great atmosphere. Every time I think of this place I wish I went there more often!
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Cafe Nom De Plume
60 Broughton St
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Awesome food and beer, great atmosphere. Every time I think of this place I wish I went there more often!
A little bit off the main tourist track, it's an excellent place for something a little bit different, with its pan-Asian cuisine and wide variety of healthy offerings. A regular favourite of mine.
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Saiko Kitchen
15 Roseneath St
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A little bit off the main tourist track, it's an excellent place for something a little bit different, with its pan-Asian cuisine and wide variety of healthy offerings. A regular favourite of mine.

Drinks & Nightlife

Live folk music 7 days a week, and usually open until 2am. You can rarely get a seat because it's small and popular, but the atmosphere's amazing and the regulars are lovely. Listen at the right time and you'll hear plenty of Islanders' accents. Take cash though, because they don't accept cards - and keep some coins aside for when the jar comes round for collections for the band's well-earned beer supply :)
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The Royal Oak
1 Infirmary St
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Live folk music 7 days a week, and usually open until 2am. You can rarely get a seat because it's small and popular, but the atmosphere's amazing and the regulars are lovely. Listen at the right time and you'll hear plenty of Islanders' accents. Take cash though, because they don't accept cards - and keep some coins aside for when the jar comes round for collections for the band's well-earned beer supply :)
Edinburgh's gay real ale pub. It's just far enough out of the centre to be a refuge, but good enough that people go there anyway. Good quality food at decent prices, and a bottle of prosecco's only £13...
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Regent Bar
2 Montrose Terrace
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Edinburgh's gay real ale pub. It's just far enough out of the centre to be a refuge, but good enough that people go there anyway. Good quality food at decent prices, and a bottle of prosecco's only £13...
A great selection of beers and the best haggis fritters I've ever had. So good in fact, that I'm scared to try them again just in case they're already the best I'll ever eat. Which doesn't actually make any sense written down, but I'm blowed if I can rationalise it any better.
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The Mash Tun Bier House & Kitchen
154 Easter Rd
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A great selection of beers and the best haggis fritters I've ever had. So good in fact, that I'm scared to try them again just in case they're already the best I'll ever eat. Which doesn't actually make any sense written down, but I'm blowed if I can rationalise it any better.
One of 6 venues run by a Swedish couple including pubs and a vegetarian restaurant. Great for simple but incredibly delicious food, and a lovely atmosphere.
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Joseph Pearce
23 Elm Row
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One of 6 venues run by a Swedish couple including pubs and a vegetarian restaurant. Great for simple but incredibly delicious food, and a lovely atmosphere.
An essential part of Edinburgh's LGBT scene, cafe by day, bar in the afternoon, club at night. Open until 3am 7 nights a week (5am during August).
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CC Blooms
23-24 Greenside Pl
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An essential part of Edinburgh's LGBT scene, cafe by day, bar in the afternoon, club at night. Open until 3am 7 nights a week (5am during August).
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The Street
2b Picardy Pl
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A reliably excellent selection of beers in a relaxing location with good food. One of my favourites.
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The Southern Bar
22-26 S Clerk St
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A reliably excellent selection of beers in a relaxing location with good food. One of my favourites.
Excellent food, excellent beer and gin brewed/distilled on site. The former veterinary college of Edinburgh University, its decor very much shows this :)
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The Royal Dick Bar
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Excellent food, excellent beer and gin brewed/distilled on site. The former veterinary college of Edinburgh University, its decor very much shows this :)
The beer garden, which is a gorgeous sun trap if it's not so busy you can't get in it. Live music and comedy during the festival is great, football less so. A decent selection of beers.
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The Peartree
38 W Nicolson St
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The beer garden, which is a gorgeous sun trap if it's not so busy you can't get in it. Live music and comedy during the festival is great, football less so. A decent selection of beers.
The closest thing to the tropics in Scotland - which you can only achieve indoors :)
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Paradise Palms
41 Lothian St
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The closest thing to the tropics in Scotland - which you can only achieve indoors :)
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Doctors
32 Forrest Rd
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Excellent beer and live folk music most nights. Well worth a visit.
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Sandy Bell's
25 Forrest Rd
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Excellent beer and live folk music most nights. Well worth a visit.
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The Auld Hoose
19 Forth St
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Free entry all night, in the heart of the Cowgate, a really great place for metal or other alternative music, and a lovely eclectic mix. I only go a few times a year, but it's one of the few places I've been visiting for the last 15 years.
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Opium Nightclub
71 Cowgate
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Free entry all night, in the heart of the Cowgate, a really great place for metal or other alternative music, and a lovely eclectic mix. I only go a few times a year, but it's one of the few places I've been visiting for the last 15 years.
A French and Tour-de-France themed pub, it has a great atmosphere and a thorough selection of German beers. Well worth calling in.
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The Ventoux
2 Brougham St
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A French and Tour-de-France themed pub, it has a great atmosphere and a thorough selection of German beers. Well worth calling in.

Parks & Nature

It's big and open and flat and beautiful. Plenty of coffee shops nearby, and in the summer it's a popular sun trap. Whatever time of day or night you go, you'll always see a runner or two doing a circuit :) It's got excellent outdoor tennis courts and an impressive children's playground at the eastern end.
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The Meadows
Melville Drive
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It's big and open and flat and beautiful. Plenty of coffee shops nearby, and in the summer it's a popular sun trap. Whatever time of day or night you go, you'll always see a runner or two doing a circuit :) It's got excellent outdoor tennis courts and an impressive children's playground at the eastern end.
The highest hill in the city, and in summer it's broad daylight up there after midnight. It looks imposing from the foot, but it's not too difficult to get to the top - but Holyrood Park is well worth the wander anyway.
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Arthur's Seat
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The highest hill in the city, and in summer it's broad daylight up there after midnight. It looks imposing from the foot, but it's not too difficult to get to the top - but Holyrood Park is well worth the wander anyway.
A valley of green in the middle of a capital city, with Princes Street to one side, and the Castle towering above. If you're there at 1 o'clock you'll hear the gun, and you'll find ice cream sellers whatever the weather. At Christmas it's home to the Christmas markets and Santa Land and all sorts of colourful stuff (and plenty of Gluwein of course!)
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Princes Street
Princes Street
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A valley of green in the middle of a capital city, with Princes Street to one side, and the Castle towering above. If you're there at 1 o'clock you'll hear the gun, and you'll find ice cream sellers whatever the weather. At Christmas it's home to the Christmas markets and Santa Land and all sorts of colourful stuff (and plenty of Gluwein of course!)

Arts & Culture

It's got pretty much everything, in two highly impressive buildings built 150 years apart. It's also free, so very much well worth a couple of hours!
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Museo Nazionale della Scozia
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It's got pretty much everything, in two highly impressive buildings built 150 years apart. It's also free, so very much well worth a couple of hours!
My nearest venue, and where I've been lucky enough to see some of my favourite bands and artists.
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The Queen's Hall
85-89 Clerk St
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My nearest venue, and where I've been lucky enough to see some of my favourite bands and artists.
The former Royal Dick Veterinary college of Edinburgh University, it's now a venue for shows, art exhibitions, and all sorts of other interesting things. Plenty of equipment and samples from its vet school days decorate the various spaces, and you can retire to the Royal Dick pub in the courtyard afterwards...
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Summerhall
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The former Royal Dick Veterinary college of Edinburgh University, it's now a venue for shows, art exhibitions, and all sorts of other interesting things. Plenty of equipment and samples from its vet school days decorate the various spaces, and you can retire to the Royal Dick pub in the courtyard afterwards...

Sightseeing

Another spot for some of the best views of the city, home to the Nelson Monument with its Time Ball that drops with the 1 o'clock gun, the National Monument (known as the National Disgrace because it's a massively incomplete replica of the Parthenon), and the City Observatory.
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Collina di Calton
Calton Hill
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Another spot for some of the best views of the city, home to the Nelson Monument with its Time Ball that drops with the 1 o'clock gun, the National Monument (known as the National Disgrace because it's a massively incomplete replica of the Parthenon), and the City Observatory.
The centre of Scottish democracy, with free tours around the building. Quite a political hub for obvious reasons, there's a reasonable chance you'll get caught up in a pro-EU demo or something equally friendly. And I might be there in the midst ;)
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Scottish Parliament Building
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The centre of Scottish democracy, with free tours around the building. Quite a political hub for obvious reasons, there's a reasonable chance you'll get caught up in a pro-EU demo or something equally friendly. And I might be there in the midst ;)

Shopping

Established in 1934 in the current premises, their next step was a branch in Harvey Nichols... It's an independent family-owned Italian delicatessen, wine merchant, cafe, and festival venue, renowned for high quality and products you'll struggle to find anywhere else. An extremely special shop and a must-visit.
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Valvona Crolla
19 Elm Row
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Established in 1934 in the current premises, their next step was a branch in Harvey Nichols... It's an independent family-owned Italian delicatessen, wine merchant, cafe, and festival venue, renowned for high quality and products you'll struggle to find anywhere else. An extremely special shop and a must-visit.
Branches in the Grassmarket, Clerk Street, and Teviot Place (under the name Rusty Zip). Vintage clothing and interesting finds. Prepare to lose hours, especially in the Grassmarket branch!
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Armstrongs Vintage
81-83 Grassmarket
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Branches in the Grassmarket, Clerk Street, and Teviot Place (under the name Rusty Zip). Vintage clothing and interesting finds. Prepare to lose hours, especially in the Grassmarket branch!

Entertainment & Activities

Home of Edinburgh's International Film Festival, it's a great place to see interesting art house films in a really lovely building
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Filmhouse
88 Lothian Rd
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Home of Edinburgh's International Film Festival, it's a great place to see interesting art house films in a really lovely building
One of Scotland's oldest cinemas (dating back to 1914), it still retains much of the original internal appearance. Since the 1940s it's specialised in art house and foreign language films and it also has a great bar!
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Cameo Picturehouse
38 Home St
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One of Scotland's oldest cinemas (dating back to 1914), it still retains much of the original internal appearance. Since the 1940s it's specialised in art house and foreign language films and it also has a great bar!